GARBAGE DISPOSAL

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A garbage disposal, garbage disposer, food waste disposal, food waste disposer, waste disposal unit, or garburator / garbarator (Canada) is a device, usually electrically-powered, installed under a kitchen sink between the sink’s drain and the trap which shreds food waste into pieces small enough (generally less than 2 mm)[1] to pass through plumbing.

Contents

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History

The garbage disposal was invented in 1927 by John W. Hammes. He was an architect working in Racine, Wisconsin. After eleven years of development, his InSinkErator company put his disposer on the market in 1938.

In many cities in the United States in the 1930s and the 1940s the municipal sewage system had regulations prohibiting running food waste (garbage) into the system. InSinkErator spent considerable effort, and was highly successful in convincing many localities to rescind these prohibitions.[2] Many localities mandated the use of disposers.[3] For many years, garbage disposals were illegal in New York City because of a perceived threat of damage to the city’s sewer system. After a 21-month study with the NYC Department of Environmental Protection[4], the ban was rescinded in 1997 by local law 1997/071 which amended section 24-518.1, NYC Administrative code.[5] In 2008, the city of Raleigh, North Carolina attempted a ban on the replacement and installation of garbage disposals which also extended to outlying towns sharing the city’s municipal sewage system, but rescinded the ban one month later.[6][7]

Garbage disposal units became popular in American kitchens of the better-off in the 1970s and 1980s. In the U.S. 47% of homes had disposal units as of 2007, but in the United Kingdom this was only 6%.[8]

Geographical extent

Garbage disposal units are widely used in North American households, but far less commonly used elsewhere. In nations with ready access to water and an industrial base, these devices are generally permitted.

In Sweden, some municipalities encourage the installation of disposers so as to increase the production of biogas.[9] Some local authorities in Britain subsidise the purchase of garbage disposal units in order to reduce the amount of waste going to landfill.[10][11]

The rationale for garbage disposals

Food scraps range from 10% to 20% of household waste,[12] and are a problematic component of municipal waste, creating public health, sanitation and environmental problems at each step, beginning with internal storage and followed by truck-based collection. Burned in waste-to-energy facilities, the high water-content of food scraps does not generate energy; buried in landfills (a method now abolished in the EU), food scraps decompose and generate methane gas, which is a highly potent greenhouse gas, initially 21 times more potent than carbon dioxide, and after many years breaking down to carbon dioxide and water.

The premise behind the proper use of a disposal is to effectively regard food scraps as liquid (averaging 70% water, like human waste), and utilize existing infrastructure (underground sewers and wastewater treatment plants) for its management. Modern wastewater plants are effective at processing organic solids into fertilizer products (known as biosolids), with advanced facilities also capturing methane for energy production.[13]

Operation

A high-torque, insulated electric motor, usually rated at 200–750 watts (¼ to 1 horsepower) for a domestic unit, spins a circular turntable mounted horizontally above it. Induction motors rotate at 1,400–1,800 rpm and have low starting torque; commutator motors rotate at higher speeds (about 2,800 rpm), have high starting torque, and are usually lighter.[14] However commutator motors are noisier than induction motors, partially due to the higher speeds and partially because the commutator brushes rub on the slotted armature.[15] The higher starting torque of those appliances with a permanent magnet motor secures in most cases that there will be no blockage.

The added weight and size of induction motors might be of concern. Many models have some degree of sound insulation.

The turntable is surrounded by a shredder ring, which has sharp slots. The food waste sits on the turntable and through centrifugal force is forced to its perimeter and through the shredder ring. The turntable has a number of swiveling lugs—similar to little hammers attached to its topside—which assist in forcing the waste through the shredder. Except for special models, most of the food waste disposers do not have any sharp blades or scissors.

Waste is fed into a chamber above the turntable and drops on the turntable. The chamber may have a rubber partial closure through which waste can be pushed without letting cutlery and other objects fall in, but essentially the chamber is open at the top, and there is access to the turntable. This is useful in the case of a jam: The turntable can be forced round by pushing with a wooden spoon handle or similar object until the jam clears. Waste that cannot be ground successfully can be removed manually.

Most units are of the continuous-feed type, allowing waste to be added as the unit runs. Batch-feed models are also available with a lid that must be locked before operation, making it impossible to run the machine when a user is trying to clear a jam by hand and preventing cutlery, etc. from falling in.

Some commercial and high-end domestic disposals also have an undercutter blade that revolves below the turntable and chops the ground waste, including fibrous material which could cause a drain clog, finer. These disposals can handle fibrous waste such as artichoke leaves that cannot be successfully ground in a standard disposal.

Waste disposal units may jam but can usually be cleared either by forcing the turntable round from above or by turning the motor using a hex-key wrench inserted into the motor shaft from below. Very hard objects accidentally or deliberately introduced, such as metal cutlery, can damage the waste disposal unit and become damaged themselves. More problematic are drain blockages caused by shredded waste that is fibrous (artichoke leaves) or starchy (potato peelings).

Some higher-end units have automatic reversing. By using a slightly more-complicated centrifugal starting switch, the split-phase motor rotates in the opposite direction from the previous run each time it is started. This can clear minor jams but is claimed to be unnecessary by some manufacturers: Since the late 1970s most disposal units have swivel impellers which make reversing unnecessary.[16]

There was another kind of garbage disposal unit powered by water pressure rather than electricity, and while that unit is still frequently cited in various articles and web searches, it has not been commercially available since the early 2000’s and the manufacturer filed for bankruptcy back in 2007. [17] Instead of the turntable and grind ring described above, an alternative machine had a water-powered unit with an oscillating piston with blades attached to chop the waste into fine pieces.[18] Because of this cutting action, they could handle fibrous waste. Water-powered units took longer than electric ones for a given amount of waste and needed fairly high water pressure to function properly. It was a great concept, but apparently not yet ready for mass production.

Cold water should always be kept running when the disposal is switched on to prevent damage to the blades and wash away the chopped waste without allowing it to build up and clog the drains. Hot water tends to melt easily-flushed solid shredded pieces of fat, which can then solidify and block the drain. Under no circumstances should oil or grease be disposed in a sink drain – with or without a disposer in use.

Provision must be made to supply and switch power to the waste disposal unit. A conventional electric switch can be used, which requires wiring to be installed and poses a potential electric shock hazard if used with wet hands. An air switch which delivers a puff of air to operate an electric switch remote from the operator is safer. Alternatively, a wireless remote control switch can be used.

If a garbage disposal is discovered to have a “frozen lug”, or a hammer that does not move freely, it is recommended that the user feed smaller bones such as those from chicken, through the unit. As seen on an episode of the TV show How It’s Made, InSinkErator company tests its units by feeding frozen steer bones through a sample batch of disposal units, so one does not need fear damage to a unit in good condition with chicken bones, though such bones may become stuck and prevent normal use of the disposal unit. Many repair technicians recommend a weekly feeding of a batch of ice cubes through a running disposer to maintain good cleanliness. This will assist in keeping the lugs or hammers rotating freely and remove any build-up of deposits and minerals. Never feed glass into a garbage disposal.

Disposers used in conjunction with septic systems will add to the load of the system, and may cause more frequent septic pumping, or overflow of sewage. For septic system users special disposers are available that feature an enzyme-adding system claimed to aid in degradation of food waste while in the septic system.

Selection

Selection of a garbage disposal unit should be based on quality and performance. Motors are relatively trouble-free, and unlikely to fail during a reasonable life-span. Metal parts in contact with waste and water (turntable, lugs, chamber, shredding ring) are very prone to corrosion, and last much longer if made of stainless steel or similar corrosion-resistant material rather than non-stainless steel, even if galvanized. The length of manufacturers’ warranties gives some indication of quality, but units should last much longer than their warranty period.

The size of the chamber and power of the motor (in horsepower or watts) determine the amount of waste processed per unit time. Soundproofing to reduce the noise of operation adds cost.

Induction and commutator motors each have advantages and disadvantages. Feed can be continuous or batched.

Some manufacturers use standard mountings for all their models, making it very easy to replace a unit by any model of the same brand.

Many standard disposal units allow a dishwasher to be connected, and some more expensive dishwashers are equipped with a small built-in garbage disposal unit, making it unnecessary to scrape plates before washing them.

Impact and disadvantages

Sewage treatment plants cannot easily handle the extra load of kitchen waste disposal units.[citation needed] The load of organic carbon that reaches the treatment plant increases, which in turn increases the consumption of oxygen.[19] The result is larger amounts of solids. However, if the waste water treatment is finely controlled, the organic carbon in the food may help to keep the bacterial decomposition running. Carbon may be deficient in that process. If no waste water treatment is performed, the extra load of pollutants is detrimental to the environment and chemicals in the waste are problematic.

It is often said[who?] that most organic waste would be better used for composting, an option not open to many city-dwellers without an effective collection system. Use of garbage disposal units diverts the impact of food waste from methods such as landfill or incinerators to effluent disposal systems.

Energy usage is not high; typically 500 to 1500 watts of power are used, comparable to an electric iron, but only for a very short time. Daily water usage varies, but is typically comparable to flushing a toilet a couple of times.[20] One survey of these food processing units found a slight increase in household water use.[21]

  • If the disposal jams, turn off the power and look underneath the sink. There is a place in the center of the motor shaft, on the bottom of the unit, where you can use an allen wrench to manually turn the motor. Give the motor a few manual turns to get it unstuck. Remove the Allen wrench before you try to run the motor again. Also, press the reset button/ circuit breaker on the bottom of unit, if applicable.
  • Composting is a great alternative to using your disposal. When done properly, it doesn’t create odors—it creates rich fertilizer for your garden or potted plants.
  • There are commercial products that are designed to freshen your disposal. One product is a biodegradable bag filled with a cleaning powder that you drop into the disposal; it foams up as you run your garbage disposal with the faucet on.
  • Garbage disposals are noisy, somewhat unreliable since you cannot always know exactly what will go down and what will not, and the powerful and reliable ones are expensive. A great alternative is a trash can with a lid that seals in the smells. Keep it right next to the counter by your sink so the waste can go right into it from over the counter.
  • Read the directions for your model before attempting a home repair. Most disposals have an electrical reset button, and a manual hex key for un-jamming. If the disposal stops working, its internal circuit breaker may have shut it off. Turn the switch definitely off, and try to pull out the hard object that may have jammed it. Then use the right-sized hex key to manually turn the rotor parts (usually directly under the unit in the center). If it turns, then push the reset button. It usually clicks in. Then, turn on the water and try the power, again.
  • With the disposal off, clean the inner side of the rubber in the center of the sink leading to the disposal. It gets very dirty, and gives off an odor when not cleaned. Just wipe it with a paper towel.
  • Throw some ice down once in a while. While ice will not sharpen the shredders (as is commonly believed), it does knock off any debris build-up on the sharp edges that keeps them from grinding food properly. For better results, make special ice cubes from pure lemon juice or vinegar or alternate with cleanser (label them in your freezer!). Be sure to run cold water at the same time.
  • Dispose orange peels, or any citrus rinds, to freshen the disposal and keep it smelling clean, but cut them into slices first as large pieces of citrus peel, e.g. half a lime, can jam a disposal. You can also use pieces of citrus fruit that may be too old to consume, as long as they’re not too spoiled to smell nice. You can freeze these pieces first, if you wish.

Avoid placing trash or hard items down the disposal. Common sense will go a long way, but here are some examples of items to avoid:

  • twist ties, pull tabs, rubber bands
  • glass, screws, nails,
  • utensils
  • cigarette butts or bottle caps, paper, plastic, or other trash
  • fabric, string, rags, or sponges
  • plant or flower clippings
  • children’s toys
  • hair
  • grease

Do not put fibrous or starchy items in the disposal. Both can cause particularly stubborn drain blockages (fibers get tangled, and starches get thick). The following items should be put in the disposal in minimal increments, preferably cut into small pieces, or not at all:

  • banana peels
  • celery
  • potato peelings
  • corn husk or corn cobs
  • artichokes
  • eggshells
  • coffee grounds (in quantity) or coffee filters
  • fruit pits and hard seeds from things like avocados or peaches
  • onion skins and egg shells (unless you’re especially careful to completely remove the thin membranes of each, which can wrap around the shredder ring)

other websites we recommend you look at:

www.asap-plumbing.com